JESSE JOJSlES 8t CO., 



manufaetupeps of 



*^\''^> 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



M 



TJ^ 



Shelf .'H:^ 2^ 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



et. 





FOR THE MAKING OF 

MACAROONS and ALMOND CONFECTIONS, 

USE 

^^ HENRY HEIDE'S GENUINE ALMOND PASTE. ^^ 

It is the most reliable article for that purpose. 

It contains by far more almonds, less moisture and less sugar than 

any other make ; hence is the most valuable. It is 

absolutely free from adulterants. 

It Is the only original, and has been on the market over sixteen years. 

For Sale by all first-class Grocers and Supply Dealers. 

OFFICE, 179 FRANKLIN STREET. 
factory, 14 & 16 HARRISON ST. AND 179, ISI & 183 FRANKLIN ST., 



NEW WAY 





WHAT? 

TO MAKE ICE CREAM BY HAND. 




J. L. & H. W. HIGH, 

123 N. THIRD ST., 

PHILADELPHIA 



NOTES 



ON 



QImerican 

(^fectionery 

BY 

^^^ 'v.^ ^^ 

WITH METHODS OF WORKING DIFFERENT BRANCHES 

OF CANDY MAKING, ICE CREAM AND 

SODA WATER. 



PRICE, $2.00. 



DEC 4 )'l 

PUBLISHED BY AUTHOR. 




^p*" 

V"!^ 



Copyright, 1891. 



PHILADELPHIA: 

Patteson Printing House, 18 S. Third St. 

1891. 



^^. 



PREFACE. 



In offering this book to the manufacturers of 
American Confections I will endeavor to avoid the 
common practice of writers (in filling a large vol- 
ume with ancient ideas, theories and receipts). I hope 
by the appearance of this little volume to set forth 
some plain facts in as few words as possible. Some 
of the theories are new, yet very true. The object 
I have in view is plain and can be readily defined. 
After 25 years of experience in long and careful ex- 
periments of no small importance and value, I feel 
competent to undertake the important task of coming 
before the confectioners of the present age. In the 
pages of this book I have given a detailed statement 
of many points which I have discovered to be of 
benefit to the art of confectionery, and have en- 
deavored to bring the main points within the grasp 
of all who will read carefully and practice in the 
art. My theories are well fixed by practical experi- 
ments and by the evidence of accomplished facts. It 



is of interest not only to a few, but to the many 
who may be interested in the manufacturing of con- 
fections, ice cream, and soda water. The importance 
this little work has over many other much larger 
books can be readily seen and found safe to follow 
all instruction, as it is laid down in here. I have 
avoided recommending expensive machinery and im- 
possibilities for small factories, have kept economy 
in view when it is really necessary for prosperity. I 
hope we are all fully aware of the importance of 
keeping abreast of these progressive times, and by 
holding a key to scientific and practical experimental 
knowledge, we have the lead of advancing times in 
being able to force the way into the future art of 
confectionery, and by giving my best experience as I 
have found it will benefit those of my fellow crafts- 
man to obtain higher advantages in the art, and 
educate the younger workman, I have accomplished 
one of my main objects in giving this little work of 
simple and plain facts to the trade. 



INTRODUCTION. 



If I were to give proof of theories and reasons 
why I hold views as it is laid down in this book, 
I would be obliged to fill a much larger volume of 
arguments of no real value to the reader, I simply 
ask those who wish truth of correctness to try the 
theories with practice, and they will be convinced of 
the advantage over customary methods which are in 
use in the confectionery business, further reference to 
the reliability of the notes before us is really not 
necessary. 

But it is absolutely essential that we follow the 
instruction carefully if we would be successful. Too 
few of us think it necessary to put into practice 
simple facts, but go on in our old way without im- 
proving our work, when we might have guides to 
put us on our way and indicate the course that must 
be pursued to accomplish anything like success in 
the confectionery business. 



Notes ON Candy. 



Hints on Cream (or Fondant). 

We will commence our remarks by taking up the 
subject of Cream, as cream is one of the most impor- 
tant features in the candy business, and when you 
have a good cream you can make good candy if 
properly handled. We ought to give this special 
branch a special study, and in the following hints we 
will try to give our experience as we see it. As 
cream is made many ways, and is used for many 
different purposes, it would be well for us to under- 
stand more fully the different effects of alkalines on 
sugar. 

EiFect of Alkalines on Sugar. 

Cream Tartar will act on the grain of sugar after 
it is made into cream longer than any other alkaline, 
as you will notice that a bon-bon made from cream 
in which cream tartar has been used will continue to 
get mellow for some time after it is made up, and 
cream that glucose has been used in will commence 
to dry out soon after it is made up, if it is exposed 
to the air. Yet there is such a thing as using too 



lO NOTES ON CANDY. 

much cream tartar, which will kill the grain of sugar, 
one teaspoon ful of cream tartar to lO pounds of sugar 
is sufficient to make a good cream. In cases where 
you want the cream to work longer before sitting, 
use a little glucose with the cream tartar. By using 
acetic acid there is less change takes place in a 
longer period of time than any other alkaline that is 
used, and acts as a preserver to some extent. 

Change of the Grain of Sugar. 

This is a very special point I wish to call your 
attention to, as it is necessary to understand this 
throughly. Sugar is continually undergoing a change 
after it is made up into cream, and it is not best 
to have much cream on hand, as fresh cream is best 
for all purposes. After cream has been turned and 
laid long enough to mellow up, and is cooled off, it 
is ready for use, and it is what we may call live 
cream. 

Live Cream. 

I call it live cream because the grain (although 
very fine ) is fresh and has not lost its strength as 
you will notice when you use it for such work as 
cream wafers ( which are dropped on paper), they 
will keep fresh for a long time without crystallizing, 
and will continue to get a little mellow and will 
keep mellow, and will keep clear of white spots, 
which is a point that seems to trouble confectioners 
very much, and you will notice the same effect in 



NOTES ON CANDY. II 

dipping Easter eggs, and in di[)ping bon-bons of all 
kinds ; and here we may say that it is best not to 
kill your sugar too much for dipping purposes by 
using too much alkaline. 

Dead Cream. 

Dead cream is what I call cream that has been on 
hand to long a time and has worked itself to death, 
and when you use -it you find it does not get mellow 
as it should do, it will work like a batch that has been 
cooking to long a time, will not stand, gets a little 
runny and you have to heat it up hotter to make it 
sit, and when it commences to get old and dry it 
gets hard all at once. If we could get cream work- 
ers to notice the above effect they would not have 
the trouble that they are always complaining of. 



Different Alkalines for Different Purposes. 

It is best to use different alkalines for different 
work, such work as cream for drops to be covered 
with chocolate, or with chopped nuts, or cream 
which you want to use for inside goods, you will 
find glucose cream will work best, as you can run it 
longer than cream tartar cream, which would be too 
dry and short for the same work, and some work 
you would require a dry cream that would set quick 
and stand crystallizing, it is best in such work to 
use cream tartar. The following is a good way of 
making cream for covering with chocolate ; 



12 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Covering Cream. 

Place lo pounds of sugar in a pan and add one 
pound of glucose and enough water to dissolve the 
sugar so your thermometer will register 230 degrees 
when it begins to boil, then cook to 238 or 240 de- 
grees and pour on clean marble and let lay till cool, 
then turn to a cream, leaving the cream in one 
lump at one end of the marble and turn a pan or 
tub up side down over the cream and leave it lay 
till it becomes mellow, then place it in a farina 
boiler, or a pan set over a pan of hot water on the 
fire and stir till it is dissolved, then run it out in 
the impressions in the starch, leave lay in the starch 
I or 2 hours, or till it is hard enough to handle, 
then take the creams out and place them in a sieve 
and dust the starch off and then cover with chocolate. 

Dipping Cream. 

Dipping cream made in the following way I find 
to be the best for general use : Place 8 pounds of 
Mold A sugar in a copper pan and add enough 
water to dissolve the sugar so your thermometer will 
register 230 degrees when it begins to boil, then add 
8 oz. of glucose and cook to 238° or 239° and pour 
on a clean marble and leave lay till cool, then turn 
rapidly and leave, mellow up the same as in cover- 
ing cream, and when it is cold it is ready for use ; 
be sure and not use to much water in cooking so 
to make the cream runny, nor do not cook over to 
slow a fire. This cream you will find if used fresh 



NOTES ON CANDY. 1 3 

will keep well without crystallizing and will be a 
good cream for crystallizing also. 

Acetic Acid Cream. 

Acetic acid makes a good dipping cream for gloss 
and firmness, and is made by using one tablespoon- 
ful to lo pounds of sugar and work it the same as 
the above. 

Dipping Goods in Cream. 

In dipping goods in cream the most particular 
point to find out is what cook of cream suits you 
best for stiffness, such as 239° or 240°, all thermome- 
ters varies a little, so you will have to get used to 
the one you have in use. Next be very careful in 
heating your cream, always use a farina boiler, a 3 
pint boiler is plenty large enough, fill it half full 
of cream and stir the cream while it is heating, and 
when you want to test the heat of the cream stick 
your finger in the cream and in this way you will 
soon be able to know what heat of cream works 
best and keeps best. When you have partly used 
the cream by dipping add a little fresh cream and 
in this way your cream will work better and more 
regular; next use care in the goods you select for 
dipping, cherries, jellies and sour fruits hardens the 
cream very soon, use mellow goods such as fresh 
marshmallows and cream goods, almond paste, and 
dip all nuts the second time, dip them very thin the 
first time, then in thicker cream the second time. 



14 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Con Serve Cream. 

Con Serve cream is made by cookiiig up a batch 
of sugar and stiring a quantity of turned cream in 
the batch to start it to cream or turn, say take lo 
pounds of sugar, i^ pounds of glucose and ^ gal- 
lon of water and cook to 238 degrees, then stir 6 
pounds of turned cream into the batch and add 
flavor and run in impressions in starch, and as soon 
as they are cold cover with chocolate, and in a 
couple of days they will mellow up and be quite 
creamy and soft. For making goods to be crystalliz- 
ed, cook to 243 degrees, this style of cream is most- 
ly used in large factories where they want to make 
time. We would advise turned cream on the 
marble for all purposes, and made fresh often. 



Cocoanut Cream. 

For all cocoanut cream candies it is best to make 
a cocoanut cream batch, as it will be more regular 
in your work than if you would simply add cocoa- 
nut to a plain cream as is commonly done by most 
workmen. The following way makes a good cream : 
take 20 pounds of sugar and 2 pounds of glucose, 3 
quarts of water and place all in a copper pan and 
cook to 244 degrees, then pour on marble, and 
when almost cold add 5 cocoanuts, grated fine, then 
turn to a cream and cover it over with a pan or 
tub and leave lay till mellow, then need well and 
it is ready for use for running in starch, in bon-bons 



NOTES ON CANDY. I 5 

and for drops for covering with chocolate, and dip- 
ping in cream. If you want to reduce the cream 
for making a soft drop for covering with chocolate, 
add a little simple syrup to the melted cream. 



Chocolate Cream. 

We would recommend chocolate cream to be 
made on the marble instead of adding chocolate to 
plain cream, because you will have your batch more 
regular in flavor and moister and well worked, which 
is important in chocolate cream. The following is 
a good way of doing it : Place lo pounds of sugar 
in a pan and i pound of glucose and 3 pints of 
water and cook to 233 degrees, then pour on the 
marble and when cold add 2^^ pounds of plain 
liquor chocolate (melted), then turn to a cream and 
leave, mellow up the same as cocoanut cream, when it 
will be ready for use for running in starch, or by 
adding butter you can use the above chocolate cream 
for Italian Creams or Genesees or St. Nicholas by 
using it in the following way : 

Genesees or Italian Creams. 

Take 5 pounds of the above chocolate cream and 
place it in a farina boiler and warm up well and 
add ^ pound of good butter, and one vanilla 
bean, and mix all well together and pour on heavy 
wax paper laid on the marble, between iron rods in 
a mass about ^ inch thick, leave lay over night or 



1 6 NOTES ON CANDY. 

till thoroughly cold, then cut in squares like cara- 
mels and it is ready for use, or by leaving the 
squares lay till they are somewhat dry you can crys- 
tallize them in a crystal cooked to 35 degrees on 
syrup gauge, or 224° on the thermometer. 

Saint Nicholas Creams. 

St. Nicholas creams can be made out of the above 
Genesees paste by adding a little simple syrup to the 
cream when you have it melted, so as to thin it so 
you can run it in starch (use a large spoon to add 
the syrup so you will not get the cream to thin by 
adding to much at one time), leave the creams lay 
in the starch till they are hard enough to handle, 
then take them out and dust them off and cover in 
chocolate coating, have your coating a little stiff or 
cold so as to make them cover roughly or rugged 
like small horns sticking out all over the stick or 
drop, and lay on wax paper till they are cold, when 
they will be ready for use. 

The above creams make a very nice candy to 
crystallize by leaving them lay in the starch till 
they are dry enough to stand the crystal. 

Almond Paste Cream. 

Almond paste cream for hand work or for run- 
ning in starch or cutting out with lozenge cutter or 
for dipping, can be made in the following way, 
which I find will keep in warm weather without 



NOTES ON CANDY. \J 

souring or swelling up and cracking open. Take 8 
pounds of sugar and 2 pounds of glucose and i quart 
of water, and place in a copper pan and cook to 260 
degrees, then remove from the fire and add 5 
pounds of (Henry Heide's) prepared almond paste 
(cut in fine slices) and set the pan on the fire again 
long enough to let it come to a boil, then pour on 
the marble and when partly cool add one ounce of 
glycerine, and then turn rapidly to a cream (be care- 
ful not to let it get to cold around the sides before 
you start to turn it, as it will get very hard, being 
a very high cook), then cover up the cream the 
same as described in covering cream and after you 
have needed it well it is ready for use for hand 
work, such as almond paste cherries, almond paste 
scollops, etc. For dipping roll out in sheet and cut 
out different style of drops with a lozenge cutter, 
and dip in cream for running in starch, place one 
pound of the paste in a farina boiler and add one 
pound of plain cream and warm all together and 
add a little water to thin it enough to run, then 
add flavor, such as lemon or orange or vanilla and 
run in starch, and after the drops are cold they can 
be dipped in cream or covered in chocolate or crys- 
tallized. 

Do not pass over these points on cream carelessly 
if you become enlightened on this subject of cream 
through this book, it will accomplish more than any 
other book in print. There are large houses doing 
business here in eastern cities who have goods re- 
turned from far west and south that have become 



1 8 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Stale before they were received by the buyer, simply 
because they spoiled the goods in making. 



How to Handle Starch Work. 

For the benefit of those who are not accustomed 
to starch work I would like to give a few simple 
directions for working in a small way : first have lo 
wooden trays made, size 32 inches long, 16 inches 
wide, I inch deep, with blocks on corners for feet, 
then have a starch trough made, 6 feet long, 2 feet 
wide, I foot deep, with high back and ends, set 
this trough on legs, then place one of your trays in 
the trough at a time and fill with starch (have a 
regular molding starch), after you have the tray full 
of starch use a wire egg whip to loosen the starch 
up with, then stroke the board off level with a 
round stick, now place the tray on a table and 
make impressions with plaster or wooden molds, set 
on a stick so as to reach across the board, now 
have cream runners or funnels of different sizes of 
holes, say ^ of inch and j4 inch, now melt the 
cream and flavor and fill your runner and hold it by 
the handle m the left hand and swing it from the 
other side with the little finger of the right hand, 
now catch the stick (which closes the holes in the 
funnel) with the thumb and first finger of the right 
hand, now commence running the stick up and down 
and drop the cream in the impressions in the 
starch. You may find it very awkward at first, but 
with practice you will be able to run rapidly in a 



NOTES ON CANDY. 1 9 

short time. 1 have often had some very clumsy 
workmen make good runners in a few days. After 
your goods are hard enough to handle set your trays 
in the starch trough, and take the drops out with 
a wire scoop and have a large sieve in one end of 
the trough on cross bars, now throw the drops in 
the sieve and take a brush and dust the starch off 
the drops, when they will be ready for dipping in 
cream or covering in chocolate or crystallizing. 
While your starch is new it will be troublesome to 
make good impressions, but after working for a few 
days it will work better, if convenient you had bet- 
ter put your starch in a dry room to dry out before 
using. 

How to Handle Chocolate for Covering Goods. 

First I would advise all who do not manufacture 
chocolate from the Cocoa bean, to use chocolate 
coating which is ready mixed, as it is sold so close 
in price that there is nothing to be saved by mix- 
ing the coating yourself, and you can get it much 
regular in quality by buying a regular grade ready 
mixed. 

Chocolate Marble. 

For coating cream goods, etc., have a marble about 
5 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 3 inches thick, and 
set it on a wooden frame 2 feet and 2 inches high, 
and heat one end of the marble by placing a small 
gas stove under it or a small coil of steam pipe. 



20 NOTES ON CANDY. 

then place lo or 15 pounds of chocolate coating on 
the warm end of the marble and move it around 
till the chocolate is melted, then regulate the heat 
of the stove or steam so as not to get the marble 
to hot, then scrape the melted chocolate over to 
the cool end of the marble, then work the choco- 
late with a palate knife so as to cool it and get it 
regular in temperature ; now seat yourself in front 
of the marble, then scrape a small quantity of the 
chocolate to the front of the marble and coat your 
goods with a two prong fork and lay them on 
heavy wax paper (which can be laid on tin sheets 
12 inches by 14 inches in size), then place the 
tins of chocolates in a cool place ; if in cold 
weather you can set them near an open window 
till they are cold and hard ; if the goods have gray 
streaks over them or gray bottoms the chocolate is 
to warm that you are covering them with or the 
weather is not cold enough to dry them fast 
enough, in such a case you can place your goods 
in a refrigerator that is well iced, and when they 
are dry take them out and pack them in boxes. If 
they are left to remain in the refrigerator to long 
after they are dry they will sweat and spoil the 
gloss on the goods. 

How to cover Chocolate Goods with Streaks 
over Top 

Goods with an oval or flat top can be covered 
in the following way : Drop one of the drops in 
the chocolate and pull the chocolate up over the 



NOTES ON CANDY. 21 

top of the drops with a fork, and then run the 
fork under the bottom of the drop, then shake the 
fork and strike bottom on the marble so as to run 
the chocolate smooth on top, now hold the fork 
in the right hand and slide the drops off fon the 
wax paper) of the fork with the first finger of the 
left hand, bringing the. finger up over the top of 
the drop, leaving a streak on the goods. 

Round Chocolates with Streaks. 

Round goods can be coated with the hand by 
rolling the drop in the chocolate so as to cover it, 
then pick the drops up with the thumb and mid- 
dle finger, and balance it on the middle finger, 
shaking it at the same time so as to get it smooth 
and drop it on wax paper and bring the finger up 
over the drop so as to leave one streak. After 
practicing this way of dropping the drop, you can 
make time and can have your goods smooth with 
only one mark on the goods, which will be the 
streak, if the weather is very cold you will have to 
keep the marble a little warm all over so the 
chocolate will not chill to soon to work smooth. 

Chocolates with Curl on Top. 

Round goods with a curl or ring on top can be 
coated in the following way : First add a little 
more fine lozenge sugar to the chocolate to stiffen 
it or make it stand up better, work the chocolate 
well so as to get the sugar well worked through, 
now coat your drop with the hand and run the 



22 NOTES ON CANDY. 

finger around the top of the drop leaving a curl 
or ring coming up to a point. 

How to keep Chocolate Goods during Warm Weather. 

All chocolate goods ought to be kept in a cool 
dry place during warm weather, not in a refrigera- 
tor or ice vault, as that would be to cold for the 
goods, as they would sweat when they would be 
brought into the store for sale, and to keep them 
in a moist place they will get moldy. A cool dry 
cellar is the proper place to keep all chocolate 
goods during warm weather. The best way is to 
have very few chocolate goods on hand during 
warm weather. By making small quantities on the 
plan described in small batches of cream goods, 
your goods will give the best satisfaction. 

Farina Boiler for Chocolate Work. 

The farina boiler is found very serviceable for 
chocolate work to keep a supply of melted choco- 
late on hand, especially where you are using large 
quantities in a day. Have a 3 or 4 gallon farina 
boiler made out of heavy block tin and then part- 
ly fill the bottom pan vvith water, then break up 
some chocolate coating and fill the top pan with 
the coating and set in the water, and set on a fire 
to melt, and when melted you can dip the choco- 
late out on the marble as you want to use it, you 
will find this a good way of working in the 
summer time when you do not want to heat up 
the marble. 



NOTES ON CANDY. 23 

List of Chocolate Goods for Retail Store. 

The following list of goods will make a nice 
retail stock, as some of the flavors can be used in 
two grades of goods. 

Chocolate covered French Cherries (plain). 

" " Grenoble half Walnuts (plain). 

** " Almond Nougateens. 

" " Apricot Jellies. 

" " Vanilla Cream Drops. 

" " Vanilla Cream Drops with Walnuts on top. 

" " Vanilla Cream Drops with Pecan on top. 

,* *' Orange Cream Drops. 

" " Orange Cream Drops with Walnuts on top. 

" " Almond Paste Drops with split Almond on top. 

" " Cocoanut Cream Drops. 

" " Cocoanut Cream Drops with grated Lemon Rind. 

" " Raspberry Cream Drops flavored with 

Raspberry Jam. 

'* " Strawberry Cream Drops flavored with 

Strawberry Jam- 
St. Nicholas (long). 

" " St. Nicholas (cresent shape). 

" " French Nougat. 

" " Cream Nougat. 

" " Caramels. 

" " Genesee Squares. 

" " Jim Crows. 

" " Praline Chocolates. 

" " Marshmallows. 

Chocolate Wafers — large and small. 
Frosted Opera Wafers. 



24 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Notes on Chocolates. 

Do not cover cream cherries or cream walnuts 
with chocolate, as the cream around the cherries 
or walnut will soon get very hard, cover them 
plain. Caramels covered with chocolate should be 
extra rich and very soft, a thin piece of caramel 
rolled round like a lead pencil, and about 2^ 
inches long, and covered with chocolate makes a 
nice piece to lay on top of a box of mixtures. 

For St. Nicholas, make a chocolate cream the 
same as for Genesees or Italian Creams as described 
in hints on cream, and run the cream in starch 
long and crescent shape. Jim Crows are made by 
mixing chopped roasted almonds and sweet choco- 
late together, and add more sugar to stiffen the paste 
and roll out in little sticks about i^ inches long, 
and lay on wax paper and cool off the same as 
cream chocolate. Praline chocolates are made by 
grinding roasted almonds to a smooth paste and mixing 
with sweet chocolate and fine sugar, and rolled in 
balls and covered in chocolate coating, y^ and y^ 
pound boxes of chocolate wafers put up in neat 
boxes and tied with ribbon makes a very saleable 
package. Also ^ and }i boxes of covered cara- 
mels is a good package for rapid selling. All 
chocolate goods ought to be covered fresh as often 
as possible, as chocolate will become a little dull 
during changeable weather. You can keep almond 
nougateens, roasted almonds, marshmellows, and 
French nougat and all hard goods in tin cans and 



NOTES ON CANDY. 2$ 

cover a few of them fresh as you want to use 
them, in this way you can always have a bright 
fresh looking stock of goods. 

Roasted or Burnt Nuts. 

Jordan roasted almonds, burnt almonds, burnt 
peanuts, are a line of candies which is found in 
every confectionery in the United States, yet we 
find very few that are nice or fit for any use, 
mostly they are hard, dried out like a rock, faded 
or sticky, especially in warm weather. Now they 
should all be crisp, bright in color and dry, not 
loaded down with sugar in large lumps. If the 
following direction is followed carefully we can have 
goods that will keep for a long time even in bad 
weather, and will be eatable and saleable. First 
have a ^/lee^ iron roaster made in a cylinder shape 
(like one joint of a stove pipe) 12 inches in dia- 
meter, close both ends with sheet iron, having small 
holes punched in the ends to leave the steam and 
smoke escape, leave a door in the side and run an 
iron rod ^ inch thick through the cylinder for a 
bearing, and place a crank on one end of the rod 
to turn it with ; have a sheet iron frame to rest 
it on, make the frame with sides and ends, leaving 
the top and bottom open. Now put 5 pounds of 
almonds in the roaster and set it on the candy 
furnace and turn the roaster till the nuts are slightly 
roasted, then remove from the fire and continue to 
turn the roaster for a few minutes, as the almonds 
3 



26 NOTES ON CANDY. 

will have heat enough to finish roasting them, turn 
them out in a sieve and cover them to keep them 
warm ; now have lo pounds of sugar cooked to a 
good syrup and colored a deep red, then take a 
copper pan and put one pint dipper full of the 
syrup in the pan and cook to a good crack ; now 
add vanilla flavor and 2 ounces of plain chocolate 
(which you have shaved fine) and stir through the 
sugar quickly, then throw the almonds in and stir 
rapidly till the sugar is slightly turned, then take 
the pan from the fire and set it on the top of an 
open barrel in a sloping shape and continue to run 
your paddle under the almonds, and throw them up 
on the side of the pan and let them fall back to the 
bottom of the pan till they are turned enough to 
seperate. Avoid stiring as much as possible, as too 
much stiring makes the almonds sugary and gray. 
Now when they have fully turned, throw them out 
into a sieve, then place the pan on the fire and add 
more syrup, (do not add too much syrup at each 
cook, as the almonds will stick together) and cook 
the same way, and add the almonds on the fire the 
same way, not forgetting to add 2 ounces of choco- 
late each cook) if you have not used too much syrup 
at each cook, there will not be any loose sugar 
come off of the almonds, but will be crisp and a 
bright color). When you have got the almonds large 
enough to suit you, take a clean copper pan and 
add enough thick melted gum arabic to coat your 
batch of almonds, and warm your gum up over the 
fire, then add the almonds and set the pan on the 



NOTES ON CANDY. 2/ 

fire one minute, istiring rapidly, then throw them out 
on the marble, and when they are cold they should 
be quite dry if your gum was thick enough, which 
is one of the main points, as thin gum will wash 
them and soak into the sugar and leave the almonds 
dull. After they are thoroughly dry, put them in 
tin cans or buckets and keep them till you want to 
use them. In the summer time you can use a little 
shellac after the gum is dry so as to keep them 
much better. In cold weather half gum and half 
glucose made hot makes a good coating. 

I recommend the sheet iron roaster, as you can 
get a good, regular roast on the almonds, and I 
think it an improvement over the old way of roast- 
ing in sugar. A good Jordan roasted almonds ought 
not to be very heavy coated, i^ pounds of sugar to 
I pound of almonds make a good almond. Burnt 
almonds can be heavier, say i pound of Valencia 
almonds to 2 pounds of sugar. 



Burnt Peanuts 

may be worked different, especially during dry, cool 
weather, by taking 5 pounds of peanuts and roast 
them in the roaster to a light brown color, then 
throw in a sieve and rub the thin shell or skin off 
of the nut, then place 3 pounds of sugar and one 
pint of water in a copper pan and cook to a crack, 
then remove from the fire and throw the peanuts 
into the sugar and stir rapidly till the sugar turns, 
then place the pan on the fire and stir the peanuts 



28 NOTES ON CANDY. 

till the sugar melts sufficient to make the peanuts 
glossy, then turn them out on the marble and spread 
out to cool off, then sepatate a little and put in tin 
buckets with lid on and keep them till you wish to 
use them. 



Cocoanut Candies. 

Under the head of cocoannt candies we will be 
obliged to bring our remarks down to a few points, 
as cocoanut covers such an extensive scope in the 
candy business. 

First, we would like to call confectioners attention 
to desiccated cocoanut, as there seems to be some 
prejudices against the use of it, and for that reason 
I think it proper to give you my views on it. I 
would say I can recommend the use of it in the 
candy business, first, because it is so handy for ready 
use, and if you have a good quality which is made 
from good selected nuts which simply has the moist- 
ure evaporated from it, and still remains spungy and 
sweet, you will be of the same opinion after you 
become accustomed to using it, but if you have 
cocoauut that has been baked till it is as dry as a 
chip and has all kind of cocoanuts mixed together, 
you will soon become dissatisfied with the use of it. 
Then you will find it is as cheap as opening fresh 
cocoanuts, owing to the losses in spoiled cocoanuts. 

I recommend the use of it for all purposes, and 
the only difference you will find between it and the 
fresh, is, it has lost its moisture, but, it being of a 



NOTES ON CANDY 



29 



oiley or buttery nature it retains its flavor, and by 
adding it to a batch of sugar before the batch is 
cooked too high, it will become moist and will cook 
up like fresh cocoanut, or if you want to add some 
to a cream batch, and you want moist cocoanut you 
can simply put the cocoanut into a pan and dip 
your hand in water and work through the cocoa- 
nut till you have it slightly dampened, then let it 
sit a few minutes, and it will become just moist 
enough for proper use, and when you want to use 
it for high cooked candies, it will work better than 
fresh cocoanut. 

Now I cannot recommend all desiccated cocoanut, 
as there is a great deal of adulterated cocoanut on 
the market, full of starch and other substance which 
will spoil most any thing you put it in. 

Soft Cocoanut Candies. 

The following formula will work satisfactory for 
soft cocoanut goods : Place 8 pounds of sugar in a 
copper pan and add ^ gallon of water and 12 
pounds of glucose, and place pan on the fire and let 
come to a boil, and when the sugar is thoroughly 
dissolved add 10 pounds of No. i desiccated 
cocoanut and cook all to a soft ball (stiring all the 
time), then add flavor of lemon or vanilla and re- 
move the pan from the fire, and when the batch is 
partly cool it can he used for soft cocoanut or 
cocoanut steeples or cocoanut balls for dipping in 
cream, or by cooking the same batch a little higher 



30 NOTES ON CANDY. 

it can be used for Jap cocoaniit by spreading out 
on the marble, and roll out in a sheet ^ inch thick, 
and when cold cut in squares, and roll in granulated 
sugar when it is ready for use. For soft molasses cocoa- 
nut, take one gallon of molasses and 5 pounds of 
glucose, and add 6 pounds of desiccated cocoanut 
and cook to a soft ball. For maple cocoanut cook 
the same batch a little higher and spread out thin 
on the marble and cut in 5 cent pieces, or you can 
make molasses Jap or cocoanut strip out of it by 
working in the same as the above batch. 

High Cooked Cocoanut. 

High cooked cocoanut candies such as roasted 
cocoanut, take 8 pounds of white sugar and place 
it in a copper pan, and add 4 pounds of glucose 
and 3 pints of water, and cook to 310 degrees, 
then remove from fire and add 8 pounds of long 
shreded cocoanut and a little oil of lemon, and 
scrape out on marble and shape up in a batch about 
2 inches thick and cut in }^ pound bars. 

Butter Cocoanut. 

Butter cocoanut can be made by placing 6 pounds 
of sugar in a copper pan, and add 3 pounds of 
glucose and cook to 310°, and add i pound of but- 
ter and 3 pounds of shreded cocoanut and spread 
out on marble in a thin sheet, and cut in small 
squares with a horehound cutter, and when cold it 
is ready for use. 



NOTES ON CANDY. 3 1 

Soft Candies. 

In soft candies our remarks will be brought down 
to one particular point, that is to avoid getting soft 
goods a little beyond the soft point, when it is 
neither soft nor crisp, but tough and anything but 
good, by using care in this one point is the most 
necessary thing to do to get good saleable goods. 
For caramels and soft cocoanut goods, etc., it is 
best to set your batch off the fire till you have 
thoroughly tried the batch by spreading a little of 
the candy on a cold marble, and let it get cold, 
so you can know just where you are, and for soft 
molasses candies, such as soft yellow jack or soft 
molasses walnut candy, always use a thermometer 
and cook to 261 or 262 degrees. You may think 
this is very soft for pulling, but if you pull the 
batch till it is thoroughly cold, it will be light, 
spongy and soft, just nice for good eating. Some 
may prefer crisp molasses candies, but those who 
want soft goods, it will not do to give them tough 
goods. One more point is to use enough glucose 
to enable you to thoroughly stir your batches and 
stand a low cook without turning, and enough glu- 
cose to allow you to add plenty of nuts in nut 
batches, and at the same time you can use more 
cream or butter to richen the batch which the glu- 
cose has reduced in richness, for example we will 
take caramels. 



32 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Caramels. 

Take 12 pounds of sugar and 8 pounds of glu- 
cose and 12 quarts of rich cream, ^ pound of 
butter. Place the sugar and glucose in a copper 
pan, and one quart of cream, and cook till the 
batch gets a little thick, then add 2 quarts more 
of cream and cook till it thickens, and continue 
in this way till you have added all the cream, then 
add the butter and continue cooking and stiring 
till you have the batch to the stiffness you wish it, 
which you can find out by removing your batch 
from the fire and spread a little very thin on a 
cold marble with a knife, and when thoroughly cold 
try it, and if hard enough to suit you, then pour the 
batch on marble between ^ inch iron rods and when 
quite cold cut it and wrap in wax paper, or if 
you wish to use them unwrapped you can use 4 
ounces of parafifine to a 20 pound batch which will 
dry them off a little so you can handle them bet- 
ter. For greasing the marble for caramels and taf- 
fies it is best to use cocoa butter, as it will not 
taste on the goods. 



Hard Candy. 

Hard, or clear candy comes into the general stock 
in the candy business more than any other line of 
goods, and for this reason we may watch it a lit- 
tle closer. There are two points we are always try- 
ing to obtain, that is to have our goods dry and 



NOTES ON CANDY. 33 

brightness in color, our great difficulty is to get 
the right cook and the amount of cream tartar or 
glucose to use so as to have the above effect. 
First we find that by using enough cream tartar to 
keep the goods from turning they will become 
sticky and with too much cream tartar they will 
darken in color when you get an extra high cook 
on, and we find the same trouble with using glu- 
cose, and yet I find by using a very small quan- 
tity of glucose it will not color the high cook 
batch as much as cream tartar will, and will remain 
a little dryer. One more important point we might 
mention here is to be careful about throwing too 
much water into a batch of sugar which alone will 
spoil the candy if you have your batch drowned 
to start with. Then the fire comes next. A slow 
fire will simmer or stew a batch and spoil it before 
you have it cooked, and again a very quick fire 
and small allowance of water will turn out your 
batch too dry or a little grainy unless you have a 
large quantity of glucose or cream tartar in it. So we 
find we need care all around to have our work 
satisfactory. In the following directions 1 will try 
to give you the right course to follow in clear 
candies. 

Lime Drops. 

I choose lime drops for an example, as there is 
more trouble to get a good color on them than 
any other drop. 1 find that the following will be 
just right if you do everything just so. 



34 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Take 20 pounds of Mold A sugar and place it in 
a clean copper pan and add ^ pound of glucose, 
then add enough water to dissolve the sugar so your 
thermometer will register 230 degrees. When the 
batch begins to boil have a good fire and cook to 
336 degrees. Now pour out on the marble slab and 
add a little blue color, and when it has cooled a lit- 
tle add 4^ ounces of powdered citric acid or 4 
ounces of tartaric acid, then add i ounce of good 
oil of lime and keep turning the batch up while it 
is warm so as to get the ingredients well mixed 
while the batch is hot. Do not work it after it gets 
cold as that spoils the clearness and makes it 
streaky. Now run through the machine while quite 
warm so as to keep them clear and bright, you will 
find a high cook makes the batch a little yellow, but 
the blue color put in the yellow batch makes a good 
green (as it is the same as mixing blue and yellow 
color to get a green). By using green color in a 
high cook batch it makes a muddy dull color. So 
you will find the blue works best. In warm weather 
I find it is necessary to cook to 341 or 342 degrees. 
The above form will be just right for all clear drops 
and clear stick candy, excepting the acid and color. 



Crisp Candies. 

Crisp candies are a very desirable candy in all 
styles, and we cannot pass over it without insisting 
on having it very crisp and glossy. In order to 
obtain this special feature it will be necessary to 



NOTES ON CANDY 



35 



have your cook just right, no more or no less. We 
will place such as Opera Chips, Opera Curls, Shaven 
Twist, Jack Straws, Butter Cups, Crimps, etc., 
under this head. First we want a dry and high 
cooked batch and yet not too dry to spin nicely. 
The main point is to get your cook high enough 
to be glossy, and next, to be able to work it hot 
and quick, and here I must insist on your wearing 
gloves. 

The use of Gloves. 

I imagine I can see some of the older workmen 
smile when I recommend the use of gloves, but if 
we could watch these same workmen handle a hot 
batch, we would find that they have cooled their 
batch off so they can handle it with the bare hands, 
and the next thing they do they will cook their 
batch lower so they can work it when it is partly 
cool. Now provide yourself with a good pair of 
buckskin gloves and wear them till you become 
accustomed to using them, then you can work a 
hot batch while it is hot, and take a hold of it 
quickly and work rapidly which is the only way to 
get nice crisp goods such as 

Opera Chips. 

Opera chips which are very popular and show^y 
goods, being glossy and thin and light in weight. 
They are made by taking lo pounds of sugar and 
^ pound of glucose and water enough to dissolve 



36 NOTES ON CANDY. 

the sugar and cook to 335 degrees, and just before 
removing from the fire add 2 ounces of glucose 
and pour on marble, and as soon as it is cool 
enough to hold together pull it (with gloves) on 
the hook rapidly and add flavor, and when well 
pulled, twist the air out and shape it out in a very 
flat batch on a warm table, and start at one end 
of it to spin or stretch it out in a very thin strip 
like a ribbon, one inch wide and as thin as paper, 
and after you have all spun out, cut in sticks 5 
inches long and put in tin cans till you wish to 
use it. By pulling or stretching rapidly you will 
be able to get it very thin and so light in weight 
that one pound will fill a 5 pound box when cut. 
By stretching all crisp candies in the above way 
you will be able to work them better than if you 
would try to spin them, and with practice you can 
work extra high cooks by wearing gloves and work- 
ing rapidly. The 2 ounces of glucose you add just 
before pouring on marble will have the eff"ect of 
making the batch spin or stretch better and 
smoother. 

Jellies. 

i will give a few sly hints on jellies, as I think 
we all need a little light on them, and they make 
a very nice confection when properly made. Apple, 
quince and apricot are the most generaly used in 
the candy business. First we want to avoid getting 
a hard tough jelly. First take good greenings or 



NOTES ON CANDY. 37 

pippin apples, or wliite bell-flower apples, and wash 
and cut your apples up fine and place them in a 
clean copper pan and add enough water to cover 
the apples, then boil till they are soft (avoid cook- 
ing them too long as they become too dry and 
mushy), then strain or press the juice from the 
apples, now take 7 pounds of sugar and ^ pound 
of glucose and cook to a good jelly, stirring all 
the time, avoid cooking to high as the jelly will 
become tough and runny if you cook it a little too 
much, and will not crystallize very good. Try a 
little in cold water and when it is cooked enough 
to form a short jelly it is done; then remove 
from fire and color and flavor, lemon, orange, 
rose or vanilla, and run in impressions in starch ; 
have you starch well dried, as damp starch will 
stick to the jellies and if your cook is too low the 
jellies will take up the starch. You can cook jellies 
with a thermometer by tacking the thermometer on 
a paddle and then you can stir your batch and use 
your themoneter at the same time, 240° is a good 
cook for a nice rich juice, but if your juice is thin 
you will be oblige to cook a little higher, which you 
can soon tell after you have made one or two cooks 
or batches. Avoid leaving any of your juice remain 
over night unworked up as it is not so good after 
standing so long. After your jellies have laid in 
starch over night take them out and brush the 
starch off well and place a few at a time in a 
round bottom pan and dip your hands in thin syrup 



38 NOTES ON CANDY. 

and run though the jellies till they are a little sticky 
then throw them in granulated sugar and sieve them 
out and lay on trays to dry, set them with tops up, 
it is best to leave them lay on trays till the next 
morning if the weather is dry; then set them in 
crystal pans and cook a high crystal, say 36^° on 
syrup gauge and let the (Crystal stand one hour to 
cool off a little, then put it on the jellies and set 
them in a drying room, so as to keep the crystal 
warm, and after they have remained in the dry- 
ing room 4 or 5 hours, or till you see they have 
got a good crystal, then drain off the syrup and 
when they are partly dry knock them out and lay 
them on trays to dry, when they are ready for 
boxing. 

You can make a very nice jelly for covering 
with chocolate by adding strawberry jam to the 
apple juice and cook a little lower as you will not 
have to crystallize them. 



duince Jellies. 

You will find the juice of quinces to be a little 
stronger than apple juice so you will have to use 
more sugar, say one gallon of quince juice and 9 
pounds of sugar and i pound of glucose, and work 
the same as apple. Quince is mostly liked covered 
with chocolate, it is also very nice with a little 
cocoanut cooked with it. 



NOTES ON CANDY. 39 

Apricot Jellies. 

Apricot jellies is mostly made from the canned 
pulp and is made in the following way : Take 10 
pound of apricot pulp and rub it through a sieve 
into a clean copper pan and add 10 pounds of 
sugar and cook over a slow fire, stirring it all the 
time, and do not let it come to a boil, continue 
to simmer it in this way till it gets quite short 
when you drop it off the paddle, then remove from 
the fire and run in dry starch and dust over the 
top of the drops with the starch, and leave them 
in a dry place till there is a fine crust forms on 
the outside of the drops or jellies, then they may 
be crystallized over night in a crystal cooked to 
35° on syrup gauge, or they can be dipped in 
cream and then crystallized or covered in chocolate. 

Basin Work. 

Basin work at the present day has become a very 
difficult task, especially in very fine work, such as 
fine Jordan sugar coated almonds with a very thin 
coat. Extra thin coats require extra care so as to 
get them smooth and yet keep from spotting, and 
only those who have continual practice are the only 
ones who can overcome these difficulties. 

Smooth Almonds. 

Take 10 pounds picked Jordan almonds and brush 
the dust ofT well and place in the basin and add 
a little melted gum, and add a little flavor and 



40 NOTES ON CANDY. 

work them till they are dry, then add a little 
more gum and work till dry then place the almonds, 
in the dry room on trays till they are quite dry, 
then place them in the basin, having heat on basin 
and have 8 pounds of sugar cooked to a syrup of 
38 degrees on syrup guage or so it will form a 
good thread by trying it between the thumb and 
fingei, if this syrup is too thick it will make your 
almonds too rough for the first coat, and if too 
thin it will make too clear a coat and will not 
sugar or turn soon enough, and will cause the 
almonds to spot. You will be able to notice this 
after you make one or two batches. After you 
have your syrup cooked keep it quite warm and 
add a small quantity at first (so as not to wash 
the gum off the almonds), and when that has 
sugared, continue to add the syrup as fast as it 
sugars, not allowing your aim nds to work too long, 
or it will wear the points. After you have a good 
coat or well covered up, place them in the dry 
room, and later in the day get one more light 
coat on with a trifle thinner syrup (with flavor) 
which ought to leave your almonds quite smooth. 
Now dry them off again in the dry room and then 
cool them off and place them in the basin again 
and have a little thinner syrup cold (if you wish 
to color add color) and add to the almonds, work- 
ing them cold, and when you have a very thin 
coat on take them out and cover them up in trays 
for 3 or 4 hours, then have your basin cleaned 



NOTES ON CANDY. 4 1 

and waxed lightly with paraffine and beeswax by 
heating the wax and sprinkling on the pan, and 
when the wax is quite cold put the almonds in 
and work them till they have a fine gloss, adding 
a little powdered soapstone while they are work- 
ing. If the wax is not cold the almonds will take 
up too much wax and will not glaze good. 



Clear Basin Goods. 

Clear goods are made by placing 20 pounds of 
sugar and ^ teaspoonful of cream tartar and water 
in a copper pan and cook to a good crack, and 
pour on marble, and when cold enough to handle 
flavor and pull the batch partly on the hook, then run 
through drop machine (small round drop machine) 
and place in basin and have a little heat on the 
pan and add a little glucose (which you have 
thinned a little, not too thin, as it won't hold) and 
add enough pulverized sugar to dry the glucose, 
then add more glucose and more sugar till they are 
large enough, then remove from basin and wax the 
basin the same as for smooth almonds and then 
place the drops in the basin and add powdered 
soapstone and work till they are glossy. Don't have 
your drops too dry and sugary when you stop add- 
ing the glucose, as they will not take the wax so 
well. 



42 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Cream Basin Work. 

Cream almonds, filberts and black American wal- 
nuts come under the above head, and we will choose 
cream almonds for a subject. Take 5 pounds of 
almonds, roast lightly, then place 2 pounds of sugar 
in a copper pan and add water, and cook to 242 
degrees, then throw the almonds into the sugar and 
turn rapidly, and when they have turned remove 
from the fire and throw the almonds into a sieve 
and cook 2 more pounds of sugar to 250 degrees, 
then remove from fire and add almonds and turn 
rapidly, and when turned throw into a sieve and 
place 10 or 12 pounds of sugar in a clean pan, 
and ^ gallon of water, y^ teaspoonful of cream 
tartar, and cook to 246 degrees, then place the 
almonds in the basin and add a little syrup slowly, 
and work the basin till the sugar turns (having 
heat on basin) then add more syrup and flavor and 
continue to work the basin till the sugar is well 
turned, and then add more syrup and flavor, and when 
you have syrup on take them from basin before they 
get too dry, as they will turn the crystal if too dusty 
with sugar, and when they are cold place them in 
crystal pans, and crystal over night in a crystal 
cooked to 35 degrees on syrup guage, in the morn- 
ing you can drain them off, and when they are 
dry they are ready for use. Filberts are worked 
the same way as the almonds, and walnuts the same, 
omitting the roasting. For No. i Jordan cream 



NOTES ON CANDY. 43 

almonds, blanch the almonds and dry them and 
coat them lightly and flavor strong with vanilla and 
crystallize the same as above. 



Pulled Cream Candies. 

For pulled cream candies, such as mint, cream 
plait, and vanilla cream, and rose, lemon, choco- 
late, and orange: Take 15 pounds of sugar and 
2 pounds of glucose and water enough to dissolve 
the sugar and cook the batch to 262 degrees, pour 
it on a cold greased marble, and when cool enough 
to handle put it on the hook and pull it till it is 
quite cold, then add flavor and when you have the 
flavor well pulled through the batch take it from 
the hook and pull out in bars or plait and leave 
lay on wax paper till it turns, which will soon 
take place if you have pulled it enough, and this 
batch ought to be quite soft if you have not cooked 
higher than 262 degrees. You can wrap it in wax 
paper to pile on the counter or put it in glass jars. 



Crystallizing. 

In the following remarks we will give a few hints 
on crystallizing candies for a retail confectionery. 
For bon-bons or dipped cream goods and cut 
creams, place 20 or 30 pounds of best A sugar or 
Mold A sugar in a copper pan and add enough 
water to thoroughly dissolve the sugar or enough 
water to start your batch to boiling at 31 degrees 



44 NOTES ON CANDY. 

on syrup gauge, or 220 degrees on thermometer, 
then cook to 35 degrees on syrup gauge or 2245^ 
degrees on thermometer, then set to one side till 
almost cool, then place one layer of goods in crys- 
tal pans and take a 2 quart dipper and pour the 
crystal syrup over the goods till they are well cov- 
ered with the syrup, then set the pans on a table 
till morning, when you can drain off the syrup and 
set the pans on their sides in a trough lined with 
tin and let them remain this way for 3 or 4 hours 
or till the syrup has thoroughly drained off and 
the goods are dry, when they will be ready for use. 
Small batches like the above can be cooked about 
1 o'clock in the afternoon and it will be about cool 
enough by 6 o'clock to put on cream goods, such 
as are made out of a dry cream. For extra soft 
or runny cream you will have to let your crystal 
get a little cooler before putting it on the goods ; 
it is best to put crystal on goods a little warm 
(those that will stand it), as it takes hold of the 
goods sooner and makes a brighter crystal ; and 
most all cream goods will stand a warm crystal if 
your cream is made right ; it will not hurt the 
goods if the syrup warms them enoug'h to make 
them soft as they will set and be all right when the 
syrup and goods become cold. It will not be 
necessary to put the goods in a dry room while 
crystallizing if your cook is not higher than 35 or 
35^ degrees, but if your cook is 36 or 37 degrees, 
on syrup gauge, it is best to put the goods in a 



NOTES ON CANDY. 45 

warm place during cool weather, as the crystal will turn 
or get grainy when the syrup gets cold. For light 
crystal cook to 34 or 34}^ degrees, for gum drops 
to 35)^ degrees, and set in a moderate temperature 
of about 60 degrees. For jellies (see apple jellies) 
in this book. To soften French fruits or almond 
paste bon-bons, cook a syrup to 32 degrees on syrup 
gauge and put it on the goods warm and let set 
for two days when they ought to be soft and a 
light crystal formed on the goods. 

All crystal syrup ought to be used up for other 
work as much as possible, as new syrup is always 
best for good crystallizing, and by using a little care 
you can always keep your syrup used up by adding 
a little in most any kind of a batch, such as hard 
candy or cream for covering with chocolate or col- 
ored bon-bons, etc. 

Gum Work. 

In the following we will give you a good gum 
drop, and if you wish it cheaper you can add more 
glucose and sugar. Take 12 pounds of good gum 
arable (or senagol gum) and grind fine and place 
in a pan and add 3 gallons of water, and place 
on slow fire and stir till the gum is dissolved, 
then strain through a fine sieve into a clean cop- 
per pan (or steam jacket kettle) and add 8 pounds 
of sugar and i pound of glucose and place on fire 
and stir rapidly so as to keep the batch from burn- 
ing on the bottom of the pan, and have your fire 



46 NOTES ON CANDY. 

hot enough to bring the batch to a boil so as to 
boil it clear and continue to stir till it is thick 
enough to drop off the paddle like jelly, allowing 
the fire to become more moderate. Then place the 
pan in a steam bath. Make the bath by taking a 
copper pan and fill it half full of water and place 
it on a slow fire, and set the pan with the batch 
in on the pan of water and let it steam for 2 or 
3 hours to thoroughly clear up, then remove the 
thick scum on top and flavor and run or drop it 
in impressions in extra dry starch, and when cold 
place in dry room for 2 or 3 days, then, if hard 
enough, take out and dust the starch off well and 
place in pans and crystal over night in a crystal 
cooked to 35^ degrees on syrup gauge. Leave 
the pans while crystallizing in a moderate place. 
In the morning drain the crystal syrup off of the 
drops and when partly dry knock out and pick 
them apart and leave on trays till dry, when they 
will be ready for use. 

Gum "Wafers. 

A good gum wafer can be made by taking 10 
pounds of gum and 8 pounds of sugar and 2 
pounds of glucose and work the batch the same 
as gum drops, and run in thin wafer impressions 
in starch and sit in dry room, and when they are 
dry enough to handle, take them out of the dry 
room and take 5 pounds of the wafers out of tlie 
starch and dust them off and place them in a 



NOTES ON CANDY. 4/ 

clean copper pan, and dip your hand in good clean 
warm lard and run your hand through the wafers 
till they are quite bright, then take a clean cloth or 
paper and rub it through the wafers till it has ab- 
sorbed the most of the lard, and leave the wafers 
clean and glossy, when they will be ready for use. 
You can leave the balance of the batch remain in 
the starch till you want to use them, when you can 
handle them the same way as the above. 



Marshmallows. 

Marshmallows are made many ways, from many 
different ingredients, but I find that after all 
there is nothing like the pure marshmallow drops 
made from gum arabic (or Senogal gum), the follow- 
ing is a very good drop for summer or winter: 
Take 20 pounds of gum and grind it fine and place 
it in a clean pan and add 3 gallons of water and 
place on fire or steam pan and stir till it is melted, 
then add 15 pounds of glucose and mix it with the 
gum, then strain through a number 30 sieve into a 
steam marshmallow mixer and add 20 pounds of 
white sugar, which is a little moist, then start the 
beater slowly and work it till the sugar is dissolved 
(having a little heat on the pan) then have the 
whites of 8 dozen of fresh eggs beaten stiff and add 
them to the batch, then start your machine on full 
speed and beat the batch up light, being careful not 
to beat any more than just light, as it will fall if you 



48 NOTES ON CANDY. 

work it till it gets quite stiff, now add 3 ounces of 
powdered vanilla bean and when it is mixed through 
the batch well then add i quart of glycerine. Just 
work it well through as it is liable to make your 
batch fall if you work it too much. Now remove 
your beater and dip the paste out into marshmallow 
droppers and drop it in impressions in clean, dry 
starch, and set in room where they will not be sub- 
ject to steam from cooking batches, not in a warm 
room, but a moderate room, then let them stand one 
day and a half or two days, and if somewhat dry 
you can take them out of the starch and dust them 
off well and throw one layer of the drops in deep 
trays and cover over with fine sugar, then throw 
in one more layer of marshmallow drops and sugar, 
and continue in this way till you have your batch 
all in sugar. Now cover the trays up by setting 
one on top of each other and let set this way five 
or six hours till the drops moisten on the outside 
enough to catch the sugar, then take them out and 
pack them in the boxes ; be sure your starch is 
quite dry as the drops will catch enough starch to 
crust them on the bottom. If the starch is a little 
moist use dry flavor, as the alcohol in extract will 
act on the eggs and give them a bad taste and 
odor, if your drop crusts too much you can use 
less sugar, but in cold, weather you can use more 
sugar. If you want to cheapen this drop add more 
glucose and more eggs. 



NOTES ON CANDY. 49 

This batch can be beaten by hand in a steam 
bath, or it can be beaten up in a patent ice cream 
freezer by putting hot water in the tub around the 
can. 



Lozenges. 

Lozenges is one of the branches of the confection- 
ery business which is not worked on in many retail 
confectionerys, but we will give it a brief outlining 
for the benefit of those who wish it. Take 4 ounces 
of gun tragacanth and place it in an earthen or 
stone bowl, and add 2)^ pints of water and let 
stand over night, then add i^ pounds of glucose 
to the melted gum and mix it well, then pass it 
through a No. 30 sieve into a clean copper pan, 
then add enough lozenge sugar to make a stiff paste, 
then place the batch on a clean marble and add 
flavor and color and add more lozenge sugar, so as 
to get the batch quite stiff, so it will cut well, 
leaving square, and sharp edges. Now roll it out 
in a thin sheet about ^ of an inch thick then 
dust it with a little potato starch and rub over with 
the hand to smooth it up a little, then cut out 
the lozenges with a tin cutter and throw them on 
trays, which you have dusted with fine lozenge sugar, 
and shake the tray a little to seperate the lozenges; 
then place them in the dry room for i or 2 days 
till they are dry, then take them out and place the 
lozenges in a sieve and sieve them hard so as to 



50 'NOTES ON CANDY. 

wear the rough edges off, and they are ready for 
use. 

You will find that in using the glucose in the 
gum it will seperate the gum so you will not have 
to rub through an extra fine sieve like most of 
manufacturers do. 



The Thermometer. 

The subject of the thermometer is important to 
all confectioners, and I think all workmen ought to 
use them. There are some who are continually 
cooking one thing such as stick candy, who can 
almost tell when a batch is done by looking at it. 
Yet we often hear the remark by them ; I got that 
batch a little too high or I got it just a trifle too 
low, and it may be that the same batch will be 
shipped a long distance and will be turned before 
it has been received by the buyer. Now if you use 
a thermometer you know just where you are all the 
time and you can take your batch off of the fire 
right on the dot every time. For this reason we 
recommend the use of the thermometer. Next you 
will have to become acquainted with the thermom- 
eter you are using, as thermometers varies some, 
and you will have to find that out, which you can 
very easy do by cooking a few batches with it. 

You will notice in cooking a batch of cream 
to 240 degrees, that it is a little to soft to suit 
you, so you will have to go a little higher the next 
batch, and in this way you will soon become ac- 



NOTES ON CANDY 



5 



quainted with your thermometer, it is best to use 
one thermometer for low cooking like cream work, 
and one other thermometer for high cooking, as 
extra high cooks strains or expands a thermometer 
so it is not good for low cooking use. We give 
the following scale for a guide to those who are 
not acquainted with the thermometer : 

The Thread, 228 degrees 

Good Thread, 236 

Soft Ball or Catch, 240 

Small Ball, 244 

Large or Hard Ball, 250 

Slight Snaps, 261 

Good Crack, 271 

Hard Crack, 310 

High Cook, 330 

Caramel, 360 



Water Iced Goods. 

Water iced goods are a very pretty looking candy 
if properly made, and they will keep fresh for a 
long time. 

In the following we will give a correct way of 
working them, but it takes a little practice to get 
them nice. 

Take a one quart stone bowl and place one pound 
of extra fine lozenge sugar in the bowl, then three 
or four teaspoonfuls of water, then stir the sugar 
well, and if it is quite stiff yet, add one more tea- 
spoonful of water and stir well, and if the icing 



52 NOTES ON CANDY. 

is thin enough to become smooth on top when you 
shake the bowl it is about right for use. Now take 
an apricot jelly and lay it in the bowl on top of 
the icing allowing the one side of the jelly to get 
iced only, then run a two prong fork under the jelly 
and lift it out of the icing and turn the dry side 
of the jelly down, and drop it on a clean tray and 
lift the fork off, shaking the jelly at the same time 
so as to make the icing run smooth on top, now 
continue to ice the jellies and other drops this way 
and leave them lay in this way till the icing has 
become hard enough to hold the weight of the jel- 
lies and drops which will take about five hours. 
Then stir your icing again, and if not stiff enough 
add more sugar. Now lay the uniced side of the 
jelly in the bowl on the top of the icing and dip 
out with fork and turn the top side with the hard 
icing down and leave them lay this way till they 
are hard, when they are ready for use. You 
can color your icing red or yellow, or orange or 
green color. You can dip long cream drops and 
drops cut out of almond paste with a lozenge cut- 
ter, and almond nougateens and quince jellies, etc., 
(for a stock of water iced goods). 

Mold A Sugar. 

The proper sugar to use in manufacturing candy 
is a necessary subject to look up. I would recom- 
mend Mold A sugar for all high cooked candies, 
and for soda water syrups and ice cream, as it is 



NOTES ON CANDY. 53 

freer from cane juice flavor than other sugars which 
is of some importance in ice cream and soda water. 
In clear drops, such as lime drops, you will be able 
to cook higher and yet be lighter in color and 
make dryer goods than other sugars. In refining 
mold sugars the thin syrup is drained off leaving a 
pure, dry sugar, free from thin syrup. In centrifugal 
sugars, all thin syrups are dried in the sugar, there- 
fore it contains more molasses or thin cane juice, 
which, when cooked up to a high cook becomes 
darker than Mold A sugar will at a higher cook. 
You will find it will give better satisfaction in all 
crisp candies or pulled goods on which you want a 
high gloss, such as Butter Cups, Opera Curls, Jack 
Straws, or twist and thin chips, and in crystallizing 
you will find it will be more preferable for brilliant 
crystal and less liable to turn. The older confec- 
tioners can remember when we had nothing but Mold 
A sugar and we found less trouble in the business 
than now. 



Easter Eggs. 

No doubt there are a few confectioners who would 
like to have a short talk with us about Easter eggs, 
as they are troublesome goods to get nice. First we 
will take up the subject of coating eggs with choco- 
late. 



54 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Chocolate Egg^s. 

For dipping Easter eggs in chocolate take 5 pounds 
of plain liquor chocolate and 5 pounds of sweet 
chocolate coating and cut or break the chocolate up 
in small pieces and place it in a 2 gallon farina 
boiler and set on the fire and stir it till it is melted, 
then add 8 ounces of melted paraffine and stir well, 
then lift the pan (containing the chocolate) out of 
the water and set it on a table and stir till the 
chocolate slightly cools, then dip the egg in the 
chocolate and hang on the rack, have the rack in a 
cool place and leave them hang till the chocolate on 
the eggs is hard, then take the eggs down and dip 
in thin white shellac and hang up again and leave 
till quite dry. This style of coating will keep for 
some time without spotting, but if your chocolate 
coating contains fats instead of cocoa butter they 
will not keep so well, as good chocolate would. It 
is not best to have your stock made up too long a 
time before you wish to use them, but if you have to 
have your stock on hand a long time it will be 
necessary to use plain chocolate liquor only for dip- 
ing, and work it as cold as possible. 

Cream Easter Eggs. 

For the inside egg use short dry cream that will 
set quick, say 20 pounds of sugar and 2 pounds of 
glucose and water, and cook to 242 degress and pour 
on marble and let get cool, then turn to a cream 
and need well, and melt the cream in a 3 gallon 



NOTES ON CANDY. 55 

farina boiler and flavor, then have a cream funnel or 
runner with a ^ inch hole for dropping, then drop 
in the one half of the plaster molds (have the molds 
well soaked in water) and drop a small yellow cream 
drop on each half of the egg, for yelks, now drop 
cream in the other half of mold and your assistant 
can turn the first half over the warm half and press 
them slightly, and when they are cold take them out 
and trim them and dip in a fresh cream made in the 
following way : 



Cream for Dipping Eggs. 

Take 20 pounds of sugar and i'^ pounds of glu- 
cose and water and cook to 239 d^rees and pour 
on a very clean marble and lea vp 'lay till quite cold, 
then turn to a good cream and cover up and let 
mellow, then knead well and place some of the cream 
in a farina boiler and heat up hot and flavor, then 
dip the eggs in the cream and hang up on the rack 
to dry, and when they are hard enough to handle 
you can take them down and trim them, and they 
are ready for use. 



Wire Hooks for Easter Eggs. 

We find that a wire hook gives the best satisfac- 
tion for hanging the eggs up with. The hook can 
be made in the following way: Take 2 pounds of 
brass spring wire a little thicker than a pin and cut 



56 NOTES ON CANDY. 

in pieces 5 inches long, and shape it like a letter 
L with a little hook at the top of the L to hang 
it on the rack with. Now you can run the bottom 
of the L into the side of the egg near the top and 
dip the egg in chocolate or cream and hang it 
up on the rack, and when you take them down 
you can take the wire out of the egg and it will 
only leave a small mark on the egg. Your rack 
can be made by taking long wooden strips 2^/^ 
inches wide and i inch thick, and drive small 
wire nails in the strips 3 inches apart, now have 
a wooden frame made over a table to rest the strips 
on, and your rack is complete. 



Decorated Eggs. 

You can decorate cream eggs in colors in the fol- 
lowing way. Wet three or four small sponges in thin 
water colors, say one sponge in red and one in yel- 
low, etc. Now take one of the eggs and strike the 
egg with the sponges, and in this way you can get 
a nice mottled egg in many colors, and when they 
are dry they are ready for use, or you can crystallize 
them or they can be dipped in hot paraffine, and 
when they are cold rub them with a cloth and they 
will be quite glossy and look like marble eggs. 
Nice landscape scenes can be made very easy by 
taking thin water colors and a brush and simply 
sketch a scene on a cream egg, the cream being 
moist it will blend the colors itself, and will have 
a very beautiful effect. 



NOTES ON CANDY. 57 

How to Avoid Waste of Material and Time. 

First let us have an orderly work shop or factory, 
then we can talk about keeping scrap so as not to 
have any waste, and be able to keep our goods fresh 
by working up stale goods without spoiling a batch 
by getting too much scrap of the wrong kind for 
the style of goods we want to make. It is very 
necessary to work up stale goods as there are many 
goods that have almonds or cocoanut or chocolate 
or butter that makes the scrap valuable ; if it 
was simply the price of sugar we might throw the 
scrap away and not loose much at the present 
price of sugar. 



Orderly Work Shop or Factory. 

Cleanliness about a shop is one of the rules which 
should be most rigidly enforced, even though you 
have to enforce the rule on yourself, there is no ex- 
cuse for permitting piles of scraps of candy, pans, 
brushes, etc., to lay around on the tables and mar- 
bles, and to leave boiling pans set around on the 
floor in your way; neither should pans, knives, 
dippers, and sieves be allowed to remain sticky and 
dirty, and machines covered with grease and dust ; 
tables and marbles and trays should be kept very 
clean so your goods do not get spoiled before they 
leave the factory. Use plenty of wax paper to 
spread over trays and goods, it will not be a loss 
as the goods will be much nicer and brighter. 
5 



58 NOTES ON CANDY. 

Every thing ought to be kept in the best of order, 
workmen should take pride in keeping their shops 
as free from rubbish as possible, it is an unplesant 
sight to go into a factory and see a workman with 
a hot batch of candy under way and rummaging 
over the numerous pans or other tools in order to 
find a palate knife or some other tool which he 
wants to use in a hurry. Each workman should 
have a particular place for each tool and return it 
to its proper place as soon as he is done with it 
and in this way you can have an orderly factory. 



How to Keep Scrap in a Proper Way. 

How to keep scrap in a proper way is the next 
important thing in a factory and it can be done in 
the following way by having tin pans, like crystal 
pans, and plenty of shelf room so you can set each 
pan separately on the shelf; now take the scrap of 
each style of candy and put in separate pans, say 
all molasses scrap kept in one pan, and all nut 
scrap the same, also chocolate scrap, and all white 
goods and all dark goods, butter goods, all cocoanut 
goods separately and when there are any stale or 
sticky goods returned from the store throw them out 
on a table and separate them before you put them 
away. 



NOTES ON CANDY. 59 

How to Work up Scrap. 

When you have your scrap in the above order it 
will be very easy to add a little to a fresh batch 
that you are cooking without spoiling the color or 
the taste of the goods, and you will be able to keep 
your stock of scrap so low that you will not have 
to make special batches of something all mixed up 
simply to use up your scrap or stale goods, and 
we know that batches of that kind, after all, are 
only scrap batches, which are not worth much, 
and you have lost the main thing you started 
out to do, you have not saved the chocolate 
or nuts as you intended to do, you have throwed 
all into a molasses batch and your material is only 
worth the value of molasses, which is only about 4 
cents per pound ; when by adding chocolate to a 
chocolate batch you have saved the price of choco- 
late also. Most workmen will think that the above 
plan of separating scrap will be too much trouble, 
but if they get in the habit of working that way 
they will soon forget about the trouble, it will be- 
come natural to them to handle their work that 
way. 

All scrap that contains tartartic or citric acid 
should be throwed away, as the acids will not cook 
without burning or having a scorched acid taste. 



60 NOTES ON CANDY. 

How to Keep a Fresh Stock of Goods. 

To keep a fresh stock of goods and at the same 
time not have any losses in stale goods is one of 
the most important features in the candy business. 
A constant stock of fresh goods is a sure road to 
success in the candy business. The first thing to do 
is to supply your store with plenty of tin cans, 
such as lo pound lard buckets and 50 pound puddy 
buckets with lids, which can be got for so little 
money that every confectioner can afford to have 
plenty ; then do not fail to use them for all clear 
or hard goods, such as clear drops, crisp candy, 
butter cups, crisp taffies and burnt almonds. You 
can put a 20 or 25 pound batch of clear candy or 
drops in a 50 pound puddy bucket and set it under 
the counter, and you can fill your pans on the 
counter out of the bucket as you choose. On rainy 
days your stock will be all right in the buckets as 
they will keep fresh till used, the same with butter 
cups, and some styles of crystallized cream goods 
can be kept it this way for a much longer time 
than in paper boxes. For cream goods have com- 
mon strong paste-board boxes with muslin binding, 
made all one size, say 8 pound boxes, for goods 
that cannot bare any weight have large flat boxes 
134^ inches deep; use wax paper freely and label all 
boxes of goods, so as to keep them in the best of 
order. Box or can all goods as soon as they are 
cool enough ; do not leave goods set around in the 
factory and store in trays or pans even though the 



NOTES ON CANDY. 6l 

weather is cool, the dust and air is effecting the 
goods, in some way which is not best for them. 
Now the next important feature will be to make 
small batches in cream goods so as to have them 
fresh, and not to get too large a stock on hand, 
fifty different styles of candies in 20 pound batches 
would make a stock of one thousand pounds which 
is too much for some stores to carry and keep the 
stock fresh. 



How to Make Small Batches of Cream Goods. 

In order to make small batches of cream or choco- 
late goods without waste of material it will require 
care and active work : First provide yourself with 
different sizes of farina boilers, say 3 pints and ^ 
gallon, use agate wai-e for small sizes. Now have 
a batch of plain cream, say 20 pounds and take 2 
or 4 pounds of this cream and warm it in the 
farina boiler, thin enough to run or drop in impres- 
sions in starch, then add the grated rind of 2 or 
more oranges and a little acid (if you wish it), then 
pour the cream in a cream dropper or funnel and drop 
some for covering with chocolate and some for 
dipping with cream; the chocolate goods can be 
covered plain and some with walnuts on top, the 
cream goods can be used the same way, in this 
way you can drop two or three styles out of this 
small batch. Then scrape out the cream which 
remains in the dropper and pan and put it in a 



62 NOTES ON CANDY. 

tin can, with lid, so as to keep the cream soft 
till the next time you want to use the same flavor. 
Now proceed the same way with vanilla flavor or 
other flavors, such as cocoanut, almond paste, etc., 
and for all cream bars and squares, Genesee cream or 
Italian creams, cream wafers, and cream work of all 
kinds can be worked this way, it will require a 
good deal of work to make a large quantity in a 
day, but you can have a large variety and can 
keep your stock fresh. I have made 15 batches 
this way in one day, and in all did not have more 
than 60 pounds of goods after they were dipped in 
cream and covered in chocolate. I worked this way 
for one year and at the end of that time, I had in- 
creased the trade so I could make my batches 3 
times as large as I did the previous year. All 
crushed cream goods which are returned from the 
store can be put in tin cans and they will keep 
soft so they can be used in a new batch, without 
boiling over. 

With the above I will close my remarks on the 
manufacturing of candy, each branch of which I 
think is sufficiently outlined to make the business clear 
to any confectioner who has had some experience 
in manufacturing candy, and my counsel is such 
as cannot help being a benefit to all experimental 
workmen, and I think we should all take a hand 
in experiments, as there is much in store for the 
confectioner of the future. 



NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 63 



Notes on Ice Cream. 



As there are many inquiries in reference to the 
manufacturing of ice cream, we will choose a few 
special points to talk about. One very special point 
is the effect of sugar. 

Effect of Sugar in Ice Cream. 

The amount of sugar to be used in ice cream 
seems to many to be of very little importance, as you 
often hear small quantities recommended. Some use 

5 ounces to a quart of cream, while others will use 

6 ounces, and 7 ounces, and eight ounces at the 
highest. Now I recommend all you can use with- 
out making the cream too sickening sweet, as the 
more sugar you use the smoother and tender your 
cream will be, and the body will be better with 
much sugar than little, as for example, you will notice 
in water ice, 8 ounces of sugar and one quart of 
water frozen may be smooth when you first freeze 
it, if you work it fast enough, but after it stands for 
one hour you find it has become quite rough, but if 



64 NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 

you use 12 ounces of sugar to one quart of water 
you find it much smoother, and 16 ounces will still 
be smoother and richer and more body, but will be 
too sweet to the taste without adding acid. So you 
can find the sugar will have the same effect on ice 
cream. In ice cream that you use sour fruits in, such 
as strawberry ice cream, you can use more sugar than 
in vanilla cream. If the cream is well beaten till 
quite stiff it will taste less sweet than cream that is 
soggy and watery. To prove this, taste your cream 
before it is fully frozen. From a strictly scientific or 
especially from an economy point of view this ques- 
tion is of vast importance to those who are trying to 
improve the quality of their cream by using body 
substance, such as starch, arrow root, gelatine, etc. 
If my theory be correct, it is clear that we may im- 
prove the body and richness of cream by using more 
sugar than is generally used by ice cream makers. 
It must however be remembered that we can go to 
the extreme and use too much sugar to suit some of 
our customers who differ greatly in their taste and 
imagination. 



Hand Made Ice Cream. 

Hand made ice cream has some advantages over 
machine cream in one particular point. While freez- 
ing and working with the paddle we allow all animal 
heat and air to escape, and continually beat fresh air 
into the cream, which improves its taste and light- 



NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 65 

ness, and here I wish to direct attention to the im- 
portance of pure air in the room where ice cream is 
made. We often find ice cream manufactured in a 
badly ventilated cellar, where everything is musty, 
damp and sour, and sometimes cooking going on at 
the same time in the same room. The ice has the 
effect of drawing all gas or bad air of the room to 
where you are at work on ice cream, and of course 
the effect is bad. 



How We Do It. 

Take i8 quarts of good cream and place it in a 
pan or can and add 13 pounds of Mold A sugar and 
stir till the sugar is all dissolved, then strain into a 
40 quart freezer and ice up strong, using plenty of 
salt. Now remove the lid aad place a clasp on the 
rim on the top of the can with a thumb screw, then 
place an iron paddle with wooden handle (about three 
feet long) in the can and rest the handle against the 
clasp and run the can around with the paddle rapidly 
and as soon as it freezes cut the cream down with 
the paddle and continue; to freeze, and cut down till 
you have the cream quite thick. Now re ice the can 
and beat rapidly till the cream gets too stiff to beat 
easy, then add one more quart of plain cream to 
loosen and soften up the cream and continue to beat 
till it gets stiff again, then add one more quart of 
plain cream and continue to beat till it is quite stiff, 
when the can ought to be full, then add flavor and 
draw the water off and re-ice and set away for use. 



66 NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 

A 40 quart can of ice cream ought to be made in 
the above way in one hour and a half (i}4) without 
hurrying, by holding the two quarts of cream out till 
the cream is near frozen does not only have the 
effect of loosening the cream up, but has allowed you 
to use 13 pounds of sugar to 18 quarts of cream, 
which will work it up smoother, then by adding the 
two quarts later it reduces the sweetness so as to 
make 13 pounds of sugar to 20 quarts of cream. In 
machine ice cream you will be able to improve the 
ice cream the same way, by adding some of the 
cream after it is beaten stiff, it will allow you to 
work it longer and better. You may think that 13 
pounds of sugar is too much sugar for 20 quarts 
of plain cream, but if you have rich cream and 
well worked it will taste all right. One of our 
salesladies told me that she had some very particu- 
lar customers who liked our cream better than our 
neighbors, because our cream was not so sweet, yet 
at the same time I was using 5 ounces more sugar 
to the quart than our neighbor. 

Ice Cream Flavors. 

In the following list of flavors you will be able 
to choose from each day to make up your bill of 
fare. 





ICE 


CREAMS. 


Lemon. 




Pistache. 


Orange. 




Coffee. 


Vanilla. 




Nutmeg. 


Chocolate. 




Croquan. 



NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 



67 





ICE CREAMS. 


Strawberry. 




Apricot. 


Caramel. 




Banana. 


Peach. 




Pine Apple. 


Bisque. 




Preserve Ginger. 


Tutti Frutti. 




Nougateen. 


Raspberry. 








WATEK 


. ICES. 


Pine Apple. 




Grape. 


Strawberry. 




Currant. 


Wild Cherry. 




Raspberry. 


Cherry. 




Ginger. 


Orange. 




Sweet Violets. 


Lemon. 




Peach. 




FROZEN 


FRUITS. 


Peaches. 




Apricots. 


Pine Apple. 




Cherries. 


Strawberries. 




Manderine Oranges. 




FROZEN CUSTARDS. 


Lemon Custard. 




Nutmeg Custard. 


Vanilk Custard. 




Orange Custard. 



How to Prepare Chocolate for Ice Cream. 

Take 5 pounds of plain liquor chocolate and cut 
it up fine and place it in a farina boiler and set 
it on the fire and stir till it is well melted, then 
take 6 pounds of sugar and i pound of glucose and 
one quart of water and place the sugar, glucose and 
water in a copper pan and set on the fire and cook 
to 35 degrees on syrup gauge, or a thin syrup, then 
take a dipper and pour the syrup into the choco- 



68 NOTES ON ICE CREAM 

late in a fine stream, . stirring the chocolate well all 
the time, and continue this way till you have all 
the syrup added to the chocolate, then stir the choco- 
late well till quite smooth, then set it away in a 
cool place and when you wish to use the paste in 
ice cream take one or two pounds of the paste and 
place it in a pan, and set the pan in warm water 
and when the paste is melted add a little cream to 
the paste to thin it, and then add it to the ice 
cream. 



How to Prepare Strawberries for Ice Cream. 

Pick the stems off the berries and wash them and 
run through a fruit crushing machine, then place 
them in a stone dish and add enough red color to 
color them a bright red, and leave set this way for 
one hour, when you can add the berries to the 
ice cream, which will color the cream a light pink 
color, and the berries will show up through the 
cream like bright red crushed berries. 



Peaches for Ice Cream. 

Prepare the peaches the same way as the straw- 
berries, (excepting the color), add a little red and 
yellow color to make a nice rich peach color. 



NOTES ON TCE CREAM. 69 

Cost of Ice Cream. 

There seems to be many inquiries for cheap or 
artificial ice cream, for this reason 1 give the fol- 
lowing figures, which I copy from my book of ac- 
counts for one month's business, and the cost of 
material used : 

1040 quarts of plain cream, at 18 cents per quart, .... $187 20 
(cream stood 80 and 85 per cent cream), 

15 tons of ice, at $4.00 per ton, 60 00 

50 bushel of salt, at 30 cents per bushel, 15 0° 

696 pounds of mold A sugar, at 4^ cents per pound, . . 31 28 

30 quarts of strawberries, at 15 cents per quart, .... 4 50 

30 " " 10 " " .... 3 00 

20 pounds of chocolate, at 23 cents per pound, 4 60 

4 pounds of vanilla bean, at $7.00 per pound, 28 00 

$333 58 

The above material made 21 14 quarts of ice 
cream, and we find by the above figures that the 
ice cream cost a little over 15 cents per quart for 
material, which is very cheap for good ice cream, 
and shows very clearly that there is no use mak- 
ing artificial ice cream to lessen the cost, when 
pure cream can be made at the above cost, and 
can be handled with a good profit in any part of 
the country. 

Age of Cream. 

One more point I wish to call your attention 
to, is the age of cream which is very important, 
cream ought to be 4 or 5 days old (after it is sep- 



yO NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 

arated from the milk) before it is used for ice 
cream, this age improves it in body richness and 
smoothness, you can very easy test this point by 
working up part of a fresh can of cream and leave 
the balance stand 4 or 5 days before working it up 
in ice cream. We have one dairyman who never 
ships his cream till it is 4 day's old, and I know 
of one creamery that has a reputation for very good 
cream, and one of his workmen says he holds his 
cream till it is 10 day's old before he ships it, now 
this seems a long time to hold cream, but if it 
is kept in a good can and in a low temperature it 
can be done. One more point to watch is to see 
that you get fair measure, it is a common practice 
among the drivers of milk wagons to pour cream 
from one can to the other and in this way they 
swell the cream so that 18 quarts will fill a 20 
quart can, and when you freeze it into ice cream 
you find it hard work to beat it up into double 
quantity. Cream should be sold in dry measure 
which is the common rule in dairies \ all buyers of 
cream should have a testing glass, so as to know 
what grade of cream you are using, most any kind 
of a glass that will hold about 4 ounces would do 
to test with, fill your glass with cream and set in 
the ice box over night, and you can see how much 
milk your cream contains, as it will separate by 
morning, leaving the milk at the bottom of the 
glass and the cream on top. 



NOTES ON ICE CREAM. J\ 

Boiled Cream. 

Boiled cream for ice cream is liked in some parts 
of the country, while the trade is different in other 
places and you would not be able to sell boiled 
cream as your trade would want plain cream only. 
The best way to boil cream is to have a quick fire, 
or steam if you can have it is better, as it is quicker 
to get a boil on a steam jacket pan than a pan set 
on a fire, but if you have to use a fire get it up to 
a good heat, then set your pan on the fire and 
pour 4 or 5 quarts of cream in the pan and let it 
come to a boil, then add the balance of the cream 
gradually so as not to check the boil too much, as 
you can avoid curdling the cream in this way (if 
you was to put 20 quarts of cream in a pan and 
set it on the fire and wait till it boiled it would be 
liable to separate and curdle if the cream was not 
just in good order). After you have let the cream 
come to a good boil, remove from the fire and set 
the pan in cold water and stir the cream till it cools 
off, then put it away in the ice chest till the next 
day when it will be old enough to use for freezing 
and will have a better body by setting over night ; 
freeze the same as any other cream ; be sure and 
stir the cream till it cools so it will have the effect 
of letting all animal or cook taste to evaporate, and 
will taste better and there will be no thick scum form 
on the top of the cream, which is the case when you 
allow it to cool without stirring. 



72 NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 

How to Make "Water Ices. 

Water ices are always best when made from fresh 
fruits in their season, such as peaches, grapes, cur- 
rants, berries, cherries, pineapples, lemons and 
oranges. For winter use we find currant, grape and 
cherry juice are the most popular. Cherry and 
grape juice boiled in bottles and kept till 2 or 3 
years old are good stand bys and are handy for use. 
The following formula we find gives the best satis- 
faction : Take 6 quarts of water and add 2 quarts 
of fruit juice (new or bottled) and add enough sugar 
to make a syrup of 20 degrees strength (cold) with 
the syrup gauge; now put one pound of glucose in 
a pan and warm it a little and then mix with the 
syrup and add enough citric acid to make the syrup 
a little tart, then color to suit the fruit you are 
using (red or yellow or orange), and freeze all to a 
stiff ice, when it is ready for use. If you wish to 
use the water ice for molding or decoration, make 
your syrup weaker as the richness of the sugar will 
cause it to melt much sooner. For orange or lemon 
ice, proceed the same way, only adding the grated 
rind and strain before freezing. 

How to Make Frozen Fruits. 

Frozen fruits can be made the same as the above 
water ice, by making a syrup the same strength with 
sugar, glucose, water and the juice off of your canned 
fruit, and freeze it quite stiff, then add your fruit 
and work it through the ice so as not to crush it 



NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 



73 



too much, peaches, apricots and pineapples can be 
cut in small pieces and color peach, light pink; and 
apricot, yellow ; cherries, red ; etc. 

How to Make Frozen Custards. 

In frozen custards I would advise using good cream 
instead of milk, as is generally used: Take 4 quarts 
of cream and bring it to a boil, with 2 pounds of 
sugar, when cold add 6 eggs well beaten, and freeze 
same as ice cream and flavor, those who do not like 
the eggs uncooked can boil them with the' cream. 




NOTES ON SODA WATER. 75 



Notes on Soda Water. 



Soda Water. 

We do not feel like closing this book without 
having a little talk about the soda water business, as 
most confectionerys have soda water fountains, and 
we believe that there is a bright future for the soda 
water and root beer business in America, and not 
only in America, but Europe also, for I have been 
told by one who knows, that Charles Hires' Root 
Beer Extract is sold very extensively in England. 
And that soda water is becoming more popular in 
Europe. And we know that America has the lead 
on all other countries for good mild drinks like soda 
water, and the next necessary thing to do is to keep 
our fountain up to the advancing times j soda water 
and everything that is used in making up the nu- 
merous drinks should be the purest the market 
affords ; as good soda water is not a bad thing for 
health or taste, and we should spare no pains in 
obtaining the best of fruits and juices and every 
thing our business requires to make good soda water ; 



jd NOTES ON SOUA WATER. 

and here we wish to bring up a {^^^ points to en- 
able you to have a fresh stock of syrups daily. We 
would advise you to use fresh fruits in season for 
syrups, which can be done simply by crushing the 
fruit with some sugar and adding a little water to 
thin the syrup and continue to stir the syrup till 
the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, then add a little 
citric acid if the fruit has not made the syrup tart 
enough, and color and strain through a cloth, and 
the syrup is ready for use. I would not advise 
use of gum foam as it always has an unpleasant 
taste and does not put any life in the soda water, 
it only makes a foam, which is flat as soap suds. 



High Charged Soda Water. 

It is best to have your soda water charged to an 
extra high pressure, then you can get a good foam 
on a glass of soda water, and your soda water will 
have more life and a better taste than if you used 
gum foam ; but if you wish to use it you will find 
the following the best formula you can use. 

Gum Foam. 

Place 2 quarts of alcohol in a large glass jar, 
then add 2 quarts of water, i quart of glycerine 
and mix well together, then add 2 pounds of 
ground soap bark and shake well and let stand 7 
days, then strain and filter, and it is ready for use; 
one ounce to one gallon of syrup is sufficient to 
make a foam. 



NOTES ON SODA WATER, 'JJ 

Fresh Stock of Syrups. 

In order to have a fresh stock of syrups daily, 
where your daily sales are small, it is best to work 
on the following plan : Have one or two gallon 
glass jars with large openings at the top and then 
mix your syrups as you want to use them, by placing 
5 j)ounds of sugar in a jar and add a half gallon of 
water and flavor, such as orange, lemon, etc., and 
add enough citric acid to make it a little tart, then 
add the color and stir the syrup with a small 
wooden paddle till the sugar is dissolved, when it 
will be ready for use. 

Fruit Syrups. 

For fruit syrups made from bottled juice, take a 
glass jar and place 7 pounds of sugar in it and add 
half a gallon of water and one quart bottle of 
fruit juice, and a little citric acid to make the syrup 
a little tart, then add color and stir the syrup till 
the sugar is dissolved, when it is ready for use. 

On this simple plan you can keep your stock 
down to suit your daily business, and always have 
a fresh stock. 

Lemon Phosphate. 

Lemon phosphate can be made by taking 5 
pounds of sugar and place it in a glass jar and add 
half a gallon of water and stir till the sugar is all 
dissolved, then add 3 ounces of solution of acid of 



/S NOTES ON SODA WATER. 

phosphate and enough citric acid to make the syrup 
quite bour, then add extract of lemon or the grated 
rind of 6 lemons and strain through a. cloth, and 
it is ready for use. 



Fruit Phosphates. 

Fruit phosphates can be made by placing 8 pounds 
of sugar in a glass jar and add a half gallon of 
fruit juice and one quart of water and enough citric 
acid to make it quite tart, then color and stir till 
the sugar is dissolved, and it is ready for use. 



Chocolate Syrup. 

Chocolate syrup can be made by taking one 
pound of chocolate paste (made the same as is de- 
scribed in notes on ice cream in this book) and 
place it in a copper pan and add 6 pounds of sugar 
and half a gallon of water, and place on the 
fire and let come to a good boil, then stir well 
and when it has cooled off it is ready for use. 
After this syrup stands in the fountain for a short 
time, the butter that the chocolate contains will 
raise to the top of the syrup, but the syrup will 
be sufficiently flavored with the chocolate for use. 



NOTES ON SODA WATER. 79 

How to Keep a Large Fountain Stocked. 

How to run a large fountain without loss of stock 
by souring of syrups, etc., is a very difficult thing 
to do, most soda water men kill everything with 
preserving acids and cooking of syrups, etc. Now I 
have run a very large fountain with cold syrups in the 
following way : First take an empty glucose barrel, 
set on end, having the head out, now bore two holes 
ij^ inches in diameter in the barrel near the top 
opposite each other, now put a broom handle through 
the holes, then place a paddle in the barrel about 6 
feet long and tie it to the broom handle, now fill 
the barrel half full of water or 30 gallons of water 
and 300 pounds of sugar, then work the paddle 
back and forwards so as to stir the water and dis- 
solve the sugar, and continue to work this way till 
the sugar is all dissolved, then insert a syrup gauge 
in the syrup and if the syrup is 31 or 32 degrees 
strong it is about right, or if you want it thicker 
add more sugar, and work the paddle till it is 
thoroughly dissolved (the thicker the syrup the lon- 
ger it will keep without souring). Now when you 
run out of your syrup flavors you can take one 
gallon of this simple syrup and place it in a two 
gallon glass jar (or bottle with a large opening at 
the top), and add your fruit juice and citric acid 
and it is ready for use; in this way you can have 
a large stock of simple syrup on hand and you can 
mix flavors as fast as you need them and will be 
able to keep a big fountain running without making 



8o 



NOTES ON SODA WATER. 



furmer preparation, and can keep your syrup stock 
down to any quantity you will use for one day's 
sales, and can avoid having a loss of sour syrups. 
I recommend the use of cold syrups because I be- 
lieve it IS much better than cooked syrups, and I 
would advise the use of Mold A sugar in making 
syrups. I have kept a fountain running on the 
above plan where there was three and four thousand 
glasses of soda water sold in one day and was able 
to keep it running with ease. In order to have a 
large stock of sweetened cream to use in the foun- 
tain you can work on the above plan by placing 
the cream in a large can and add the sugar and 
stir till the sugar is dissolved, when it is ready 
for use. 



List of Syrups. 

In the following we will give a list of syrups 
which you can choose from to make up your stock 
from : 



Lime. 


Feach. 


Apple. 


Vanilla. 


Plum. 


Violet. 


Lemon. 


Ginger. 


Cherry. 


Orange. 


Raspberry \'inegar. 


Wild Cherry. 


Red Orange. 


Blackberry " 


Nectar. 


Coffee. 


vSarsaparilla. 


Cucoanut. 


Sherbet. 


Red Currant. 


Marshmallow. 


Raspberry. 


Grape. 


Pistache. 


Strawberry. 


Quince. 


Nutmeg. 


Blackberry. 


Prune. 


Teaberry. 


Cranberry. 


Apricot 


Pine Apple. 



NOTES ON SODA WATER. 8 1 





PHOSPHATES 


Pear. 


Celery. Crab Apple. 


Orange. 


Strawberry. Cherry. 


Lemon. 


Egg. Crape. 


Plain Lemonade. 


Strawberries and Cream. 


Egg Lemonade. 


Crushed Strawberries and Whipped Cream 


Lemonade Soda. 


Chocolate and Cream Soda. 


Ice Cream Soda. 


Mint and Cream Soda. 


Peaches and Cream. 


Root Beer. 



MINERAL WATERS 
Vichy. Geyser. Deep Rock. 

Appolinaris. Hunyadi. Plain Soda. 

Hot Clam Broth. Hot Beef Tea. 

Hot Chocolate. Hot Cofifee. Hot Tea. 

Root Beer Syrup. 

For making a syrup to use with a soda fountain 
take one gallon of simple syrup and add 5 ounces 
of Hires' Root Beer Solution and mix well and use 
the same as other syrups. 

In running the beer in a soda water fountain, we 
would suggest, as most soda water is charged very 
high, to each pint of syrup add ^ pint of plain 
water, and in dispensing use )^ of a glass of this, 
filling it with the soda water, which should be drawn 
lively so as to have the syrup well mixed. This 
will give you a mild and delicious beer. Dispense 
it cold. 

For charging and running the beer direct from 
the fountain, dissolve 5^ pounds of sugar in 7 gal- 



82 NOTES ON SODA WATER. 

Ions of water, then add 5 ounces of the solution. 
Mix well, place in a 10 gallon fountain and charge 
to 80 degrees. As the beer draws quite foamy it 
is well to have some of the plain beer mixed in 
a separate vessel, or it can be kept in one of the 
syrup holders, and in dispensing, fill the glass one- 
third full of this and draw the glass full lively from 
the fountain. 



Root Beer by Fermentation. 

Take one pint of the solution (Hires'), 20 pound 
of sugar (Mold A is preferable), 20 gallons of pure 
fre^li water (luke warm is preferable). 2 pints of 
yeast, or 3 cakes of compressed yeast. (When made 
in the winter time, double the quantity of yeast 
should be used). 



The Way To Do It. 

Dissolve the sugar thoroughly in the water, then 
add the Root Beer Extract and the yeast. (If cake 
yeast be used, it should first be dissolved in a little 
water, then it will mix more readily with the beer). 
Stir until thoroughly mixed, and bottle in strong 
bottles or jugs, corking and tying the corks in se- 
curely, or it may be placed in tight kegs, so that 
the gas may not escape. Set away in a place of 
even temperature. It will be ready to drink after 
being bottled ten or twelve hours, but will open 
more effervescingly if allowed to stand three or four 



NOTES ON SODA WATER. 83 

days. Before opening the bottle place it on ice, or 
in a cool place for a short time, when it will be 
sparkling and delicious. 

To make the beer more cheaply, molasses or com- 
mon sugar may be used to sweeten it. 



Fruit Juices. 

I would like to give a brief direction on putting 
up juices, and yet I do not want to tire you with 
formulas for preserving fruit, etc., as is generally 
done by writers, I simply want to make plain how 
easy you can put up your own juices for soda water 
or ice cream or candy use, the following is the 
very best way to put up juices : Grind the fruit 
through a cider mill, then press the juice off like 
cider (for berries use straw in the press) then bot- 
tle, cork and tie the corks down well, then have a 
large tin boiler like a wash boiler with straight sides 
up and down, a good size is 22 inches in diameter 
and 15 inches in height. Now put a wooden slat rack 
in the bottom of the boiler, then place the bottles of 
juice in the boiler (which will hold about 30 bottles) 
and fill with water near to the top of the boiler, 
only leaving part of the necks of the bottles above 
the water, then place the boiler on the fire and al- 
low the water to boil ^ of an hour after the water 
has come to a good boil, then remove from the fire 
and let stand a few minutes, then dip or draw the 
water off Irum the bottles and allow the bottles to 



84 NOTES ON SODA WATER. 

remain in the boiler till they have cooled off a 
little, then set them out on a table and after the 
bottles have become cold enough to handle dip the 
tops in hot wax and then dip in cold water to 
cool the wax ; now you can lay them down on 
their sides in a cool place and leave till you wish 
to use the juice. Those who have steam jacket 
pans can put a wooden rack in the pan and boil 
the juice in bottles the same way as the above or 
you can have a wooden trough made with a coil 
of steam pipes in the bottom and a slat rack laid 
on top of the coil of pipes and work on the above 
plan. In this way you can boil 150 at one boil- 
ing. Do not use any sugar in your juices as the 
sugar will make the juice taste like preserved fruit 
and will not have so good a flavor as the plain 
juice will. I prefer the boiling process for keep- 
ing juice, as all juices that are put up with sal 
icylic acid looses its flavor, or is preserved to death 
in order to keep it. 




WINDOW AND COUNTER. 85 



The Window and Counter. 



Before we close we would like to say a few words 
on the subject ol window dressing and counter and 
show case, for the factories benefit, as the factory 
is a big sufferer from the windows, owing to the 
large quantity of spoiled goods that has been on 
show in the windows and are returned to the fac- 
tory to be worked up into fresh goods. Now we 
should have some reform on this line of action as 
the factory has enough to do to work up its own 
scrap and necessary stale goods from the counter, 
but when we are obliged to receive a large quantity 
from the window it is too much to work up prop- 
erly and the consequence is spoiled batches in color 
and taste. Now this is all wrong, but to dress the 
window is a very necessary thing to do, and here 
I would like to make a few suggestions : First thing 
to do is to keep the quantity down to a few dishes 
or trays with one layer on each dish only. A nice 
tray can be made by any box maker in the follow- 
ing style : have a tray 9 inches long 7 inches wide 



86 WINDOW AND COUNTER. 

with sides or rim ]^ inch high, made out of extra 
heavy paste board or wood, and then cover the tray 
with white paper, and cover the rim with gold leaf 
paper, then lay a wax paper in the bottom of the 
tray and it is ready for use for the window or 
counter or show case ; 30 trays of the above size 
will just fill a 6 foot show case and you can pile 
two styles of candy on each tray, which will just 
make 60 styles of candy in one case for the win- 
dow ; you can lay one layer of bon-bons on each 
tray and in this way you can make a nice show, 
and can change it easy and keep the main point in 
view, that is, not to have too large a stock on hand 
to get stale. In dressing windows you should be 
as original as possible and not have any one style 
longer than one day if possible, and it can be 
done very easy by having your window arranged so 
as not to take many goods to fill it. The floor of 
a window made in an L shape is a good plan, then 
you can walk into the window much better and 
can change it very easy, and if you only leave the 
goods in the window one day you can sell them 
the next day, and in this way you will not have 
so many stale goods on hand. One reason for being 
original and changing often is that people are al- 
ways looking for something new in your window 
and will never pass the neighborhood of your store 
without stopping to look in your window ; most any 
person can think of some new style or plan to fix 
up the window on each day. I will just mention a 



WINDOW AND COUNTER. 8/ 

few ways that will look well. One very nice way 
is to have your window dressed all in white and 
have all white goods, such as white cream goods 
with nuts on top of each bon-bon, then cream mint 
plait and cream vanilla bars and crisp candies in 
white, such as Jack Straws and Chips, and Crimps, 
and a bouquet of white flowers between the trays or 
dishes, either artificial or natural will do, and the 
next day dress the window all in pink, and pink 
candies only, and the next day everything in violet 
and continue in this way with chocolate goods and 
nut goods. 

And it is a good idea to dress your window to 
suit different days, such as Fourth of July, dress up 
in patriotic colors ; and for a May Day have May 
apple plants growing in pots, and make May apple 
candy, flavor with May apple or extract of banana. 
Have something appropriate for each holiday, such as 
St. Patrick's Day have your window dressed in green 
and green goods, and for fall, have fall scenes with 
autumn leaves and autumn fruits ; winter, with win- 
ter scenes and Christmas scenes, such as imitations 
of snow, with green spruce, etc. With these simple 
suggestions we will close. 




CONTENTS. 



CANDY. 



PAGE. 

Hints on Cream (or Fondant), 9 

Effect of Alkalines on Sugar, .... 9 

Cliange of the Grain of Sugar, lO 

Live Cream, lO 

Dead Cream, II 

Different Alkalines for Different Purposes, 1 1 

Covering Cream, 12 

Dipping Cream, 12 

Acetic Acid Cream, 13 

Dipping Goods in Cream, 13 

Conserve Cream, 14 

Cocoanut Cream, 14 

Chocolate Cream, 15 

Genessee or Italian Creams, 15 

St. Nicholas Creams, 1 6 

Almond Paste Cream, 16 

Hovv^ to Handle Starch Work, 18 

How to Handle Chocolate for Covering Goods, 19 

Chocolate Marble, 19 

How to cover Chocolate Goods with Streaks over Top, .... 20 

Round Chocolates with Streaks, 21 

Chocolates with Curl on Top, 21 

How to keep Chocolate Goods during Warm Weather, .... 22 

Farina Boiler for Chocolate Work, 22 

List of Chocolate Goods for Retail Store 23 

Notes on Chocolates, ... 24 

Roasted or Burnt Nuts, 25 

Burnt Peanuts, 27 

Cocoanut Candies, 28 



PAGE. 

Soft Cocoanut Candies, 29 

High Cooked Cocoanut, 30 

Butter Cocoanut, .... 30 

Soft Candies, 31 

Caramels, 32 

Hard Candy, 32 

Lime Drops, 33 

Crisp Candies, 34 

The use of Gloves, 35 

Opera Chips, 35 

Jellies, 36 

Quince Jellies, 38 

Apricot Jellies, 39 

Basin Work, 39 

Smooth Almonds, 39 

Clear Basin Goods, 41 

Cream Basin Work, 42 

Pulled Cream Candies, 43 

Crystallizing, 43 

Gum Work, 45 

Gum Wafers, 46 

Marshmallows, . 47 

Lozenges, 49 

The Thermometer, 50 

Water Iced Goods, 51 

Mold A Sugar, 52 

Easter Eggs, 53 

Chocolate Eggs .54 

Cream Easter Eggs, 54 

Cream for Dipping Eggs, 55 

Wire Hooks for Easter Eggs, 55 

Decorated Eggs, 56 

How to Avoid Waste of Material and Time, 57 

Orderly Work Shop or Factory, 57 

How to Keep Scrap in a Proper Way, 58 

How to Work up Scrap, 59 

How to Keep a Fresh Stock of Goods, 60 

How to Make Small Batches of Cream Goods, 61 



iCK cream:. 

Effect of Sugar in Ice Cream, 63 

Hand Made Ice Cream, 64 

How We Uo It, 65 

Ice Cream Flavors, 66 

Water Ice Flavors, 67 

Frozen Fruit Flavors, 67 

Frozen Custards, 67 

How to Prepare Chocolate for Ice Cream, 67 

How to Prepare Strawberries for Ice Cream, 68 

Peaches for Ice Cream, 68 

Cost of Ice Cream, 69 

Age of Cream, 69 

Boiled Cream, 71 

IIow to Make Water Ices, 72 

How to Make Frozen Fruits, 72 

How to Make Frozen Custards, 73 



SODA W^ATER. 

Soda Water, 75 

High Charged Soda Water, 76 

Gum Foam, -76 

Fresh Stock of Syrups, 77 

Fruit Syrups, 77 

Lemon Phosphate, 77 

Fruit Phosphates, 78 

Chocolate Syrup, 78 

How to Keep a Large Fountain Stocked, 79 

List of Syrups, ■ 80 

Root Beer Syrup, . 81 

Root Beer by Fermentation, 82 

The Way to Do It, 82 

Fruit Juices, 83 



The Window and Counter, 85 



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IMPORTERS, EXPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 
EVERYTHING USED BY 



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Which they can prove is the best Ice Cream Freezer 
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By the peculiar construction of this freezer no salt water 
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All sizes turn easily by hand, much more easily than 
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MADE IN TWO SIZES: 

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THE BEST AND PUREST 

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